Unveiling Fast Fashion: How Capitalism and Colonialism Shape the Industry
“There is no such thing as a single issue struggle because we do not live in a single-issue world”.- Audre Lorde
Fashion is more than just clothing. It is a socially produced form of artistry that involves everyone you meet, no matter where you go! However, the current state of the fashion industry perpetuates mass exploitation, environmental devastation, and systemic oppression. In order to address these complex issues, an intersectional and holistic approach to fashion is essential. Slow fashion is an alternative to fast fashion that challenges oppressive systems, creates a sustainable and inclusive industry, and encourages a new consciousness and lifestyle. This article will delve into the root of fast fashion so we can understand where these issues stem from, and move towards a slow fashion industry in the United States.
Fast Fashion and How It Came to Be
As the domain of the wealthy elite, fashion was a plaything for the upper-class for years before the Industrial Revolution. Their luxurious fabrics and intricate designs, crafted by their preferred seamstresses, served as a symbol of their social status and wealth. It displayed their opulence and exclusivity, reinforcing class distinctions within society. This exclusivity meant that the majority of the population had limited access to this type of fashion, and could only afford basic and utilitarian clothing. As industrialization grew in scale, and with the rapid advancement of modern technology, the fashion industry once again changed course. What arose became known as fast fashion.
Fast fashion is a term to describe the production of clothing rapidly produced from cheap materials. This phenomenon gave rise to factory production en masse. However, it also created unsafe and unsanitary work conditions where workers were forced to accept low wages that weren’t enough to live off of. This inequity resulted in high death rates and accidents on worksites. Perhaps the most famous example of this was Triangle Shirtwaist Factory, a garment factory in New York City, which had hazardous working conditions. The factory lacked proper fire safety measures, such as sprinkler systems and accessible fire exits, leading to a devastating fire in 1911. Additionally, locked exit doors prevented workers from escaping, resulting in a tragic loss of life and injuries for many employees.
Fast fashion has evolved into ultra-fast ‘slash fashion’, a term coined by Tansy Hoskins to describe digital fast fashion brands that have harnessed technology with rapid production and clothing turnover. Digital fashion brands like Boohoo, Pretty Little Things, Fashion Nova and SHEIN have adopted this model. Extreme sales are common and stock is rapidly moving from one micro-trend to the next. Even high-end, luxury brands are capitalizing on hyper-consumerist tactics by pushing for the “see now, buy now” model that allows anyone to shop straight from the runaway.
Fast fashion reflects our current consciousness on what clothing means, and how brands carry out business practices. The clothing you see in the local mall, on your favorite website, and worn by friends, are all products of our current fashion industry. Yet they are also very much a performance of deeper social issues. What people and see are determined by ideology; our ideas, values, and feelings. Fast fashion looks like it does, with the myriad of micro-trends and Westernized styles, because of the destructive systems we are under, propelled by capitalism.
We can decide if fashion continues to be a force for oppression and exploitation, or as a tool for liberation and emancipation. So we must understand and change said performance to move towards systemic change. If things don’t change, then the industry will continue to only serve a small number of billionaires while everyone else is subject to exploitation, inequality and all sorts of social and environmental crises. It will force us to continue judging our material worth and external self-adornment as indication of our inherent worth and respect.
The Global South and the Impact of Neoliberalism on Fashion
To comprehend the root causes of fast fashion, we must consider the impact of neoliberalism and globalization. Neoliberalism is an economic model that focuses on liberating trade by deregulating state power, privitazing of public services, and integrating global markets.
Much of our clothing comes from the Global South, a political term to replace “underdeveloped countries.” The Global South includes those most subject to global neoliberalism and suffer the most because of it. Countries that make up the Global South include Nigeria, India, and Brazil, among others. Meanwhile, the Global North are countries that benefit the most from a neoliberalist, capitalist society. Countries that make up the Global North include the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, etc. Consequently, businesses strive to cut costs and lower wages to remain competitive in the global trade landscape. This puts pressure on industries worldwide, including fashion, to race to the bottom, leading to exploitative labor practices, environmental degradation, and the overproduction of cheap goods.
The fashion industry is closely intertwined with globalization and neoliberalism due to its dependence on rapid industrial conquests, made possible by technological advancements and socioeconomic transformations. Globalization exacerbates the existing issues in the fashion industry, such as labor rights violations, environmental damage to local communities, and the proliferation of cheap goods. This perpetuates an imbalanced world with persistent economic disparities, enriching the wealthy while further impoverishing the poor.
Addressing the Systemic Causes of Fast Fashion
Confronting the underlying forces of colonialism and capitalism is essential in tackling the systemic causes of fast fashion. By understanding and addressing these root causes, we can begin to tackle issues such as sweatshops, child labor, and environmental devastation. The industry's priorities must shift, placing the well-being of workers and the planet above profit. This necessitates reimagining who fashion is for, as it has often catered primarily to white, privileged citizens. Fashion should serve everyone, recognizing and celebrating the worth, style, culture, and rich history of self-adornment in diverse communities.
If fashion doesn’t serve everyone, it creates a myth that fashion only belongs to certain people. This suggests that the majority of society is marginalized and merely engaged in wearing garments rather than being involved in fashion. Consequently, it devalues the worth, style, culture, and extensive heritage of self-adornment, dehumanizing the masses. It is therefore crucial to question the value of fast fashion and understand its true cost. The true value and beauty of fashion lies in the craftsmanship of human work and the preservation of the planet. However, racism persists when only white, privileged consumers are considered to be the only practitioners of fashion. Addressing the systemic causes of fast fashion will truly require a multifaceted and intersectional effort, challenging social and class issues at large.
Shifting Consciousness: Embracing Slow Fashion
While fast fashion brands claim the democratization of fashion through their lower price points, this is an illusion: many “competing” brands are owned by the same corporations. The current fashion narrative keeps consumers in the dark, suggesting that personal success and social standing are measured by the ability to shop, discard, and replace clothing. By acknowledging the role of fashion in enforcing power dynamics, we can begin to construct a more equitable world. Slow Fashion USA encourages you to view fashion as a performance of deeper social issues driven by capitalism. It challenges the notion that fashion is exclusively for the elite and emphasizes the importance of ethical production and consumption. However, effective slow fashion activism involves class-based organizing, demonstrations, and legislative action to hold corporations accountable.
By joining together and demanding change, we can transform our way of life and create a fashion industry that is fair, sustainable, and representative of diverse cultures and histories. Tackling the issue of fast fashion requires a comprehensive understanding of its intersections with capitalism, colonialism, environmental degradation, and systemic oppression. Remember, it is not the fault of consumers, but rather the systemic nature of the industry that perpetuates fast fashion. Yet, we have the collective people power to pressure the creation of a slow fashion industry, one that is fair, sustainable, and representative of diverse cultures and histories. Start your journey by becoming an ambassador for Slow Fashion USA to educate and empower Western fashion citizens across the nation!
Written by Elle Magaña Mireles
Elle Magaña Mireles is a Latinx ethical fashion writer with a strong conviction that clothing can be a powerful tool for creating a more equitable and compassionate world. In her free time, Elle pours her energy into her sustainable fashion blog, Sustainable Amor, immerses herself in nature, and eagerly pursues coursework on social justice.