Under the Guise of Greenwashing
It’s no secret that this generation has made our demand for climate change clear. We have been made aware of the ramifications of not taking care of our ecosystem and are doing our best to stifle the damage to our environment. Unfortunately, our good intentions have been met head-on with consumerism as the climate crisis is now being used as a tool for marketing. Zara, H&M, Boohoo, and Lululemon are guilty of this because of their “green” marketing campaigns. But please, hold the applause, because when we take a deeper look at these massive fashion companies and their attempts to become “environmentally friendly”, we are left disheartened due to the lack of real change. Greenwashing not only creates confusion and frustration, but it also builds distrust from consumers.
Defining Greenwashing
Greenwashing combines the terms “green” and “brainwashing”. In essence, it is a strategy used by companies to appear environmentally friendly, when they really are not. The term “greenwashing” was created by Jay Westerveld in the 80’s in response to false recycling promises from a hotel company. It then permeated into the fashion industry as fashion companies began to see a demand for more sustainable, environmentally friendly practices. In order to gain a competitive edge, companies noticed that adding a few eco-friendly pieces to their store could really bolster their consumer market, even if the majority of their store consisted of pieces that were not created with the environment in mind.
For example, H&M is one company who has capitalized on greenwashing tactics by adding in a “Conscious” collection on their website and in their stores. Despite having several harmful chemicals in their products and being known for inhumane working conditions, the launching of their “Conscious” collection in 2011 made them appear to be more environmentally friendly. While they have made efforts in recycling and repurposing clothing, they still create over 3 billion garments a year and have a massive amount of waste as a result. Little strides, such as a conscious collection, are helpful of course, but in the grand scheme of things, H&M is a fast fashion company that wastes millions of garments a year, has harmful chemicals in their clothing and does not treat their employees well. This is greenwashing.
How to Spot Greenwashing
If you are beginning to question who you should trust in the fashion industry, we don’t blame you, it can be challenging with this misleading marketing. But we are here to help! Here is a list of three tips you can use when shopping to better spot greenwashing:
#1. Be On The Lookout For These Types of Claims:
“eco-efficiency” & “sustainable” claims- these terms often implies that there was some small level of environmentally friendly practices in the making of the product, whether in the packaging, the material, or even something as small as the tag. While this is still a step in the right direction (we always love a good recycling moment) it still implies that the majority of the products are not sustainable or ethically sourced. H&M is a prime example of a company using this misleading tactic in their eco-conscious collections
“Energy-efficiency claims”- Zara is a company guilty of this wording, stating that they aim to have more energy-efficient warehouses by 2040. These claims are often too vague and difficult to substantiate.
Vague claims (in general)- These are extremely difficult to substantiate for the average consumer. Lululemon is guilty of these insinuations by stating they recycle returned materials and aim to improve infrastructure to be more eco-friendly. However, without more factual and contextual substance, these claims can be considered greenwashing.
#2. Take a Closer Look
If a company states that they are only using sustainable textiles, make sure to take an extra look into the materials that are making up the majority of its garments.
Don’t believe all ethical claims at face value. Try to put on a critical lens the next time you go searching for your Fall wardrobe. If you see any claims, take a step back and look at where you are shopping and what kind of products you are surrounded by. This will help you start considering the truth behind the claims.
#3. Trust your gut
If you feel as if the fashion brand you are shopping at is constantly pushing out new products, as a typical fast fashion company will (think H&M, SHEIN and Zara), or you see only a handful of products that claim to be eco-friendly or recycled, it is likely that that company is not prioritizing sustainable fashion.
Trying to be a conscious consumer can be frustrating in the face of greenwashing. With companies constantly exploiting our demand for environmental efforts, it can feel wearisome to know what and whom to trust. While it is not always easy to take the leap into becoming an ethical consumer, it can make all the difference for our world.
Slow Fashion USA hopes spreading awareness about greenwashing and false eco-claims can empower you to feel like you are making the best decisions when shopping. Remember, go with your gut, take a second look the next time you think you may spot your not-so-friendly neighborhood greenwasher in the fashion industry, and do your research.
Written by Maddy Henry
Maddy is a 24 year old Graduate Student at Marquette University, studying communications and media studies with a focus on feminist and queer theory. She loves writing, reading fantasy books and has a huge passion for sustainability and environmental activism. After graduation, Maddy plans to move to Sweden and hopes to work for a publishing company as an editor or at a sustainable fashion company as a Public Relations Practitioner.