A History of Leather
Leather has situated itself into every nook and cranny of our everyday lives. It’s what our jackets, shoes, and purses are made of. It lines our furniture. It’s a staple of several subcultures. But what exactly is it? What is its historical significance? And is there any way it can be produced sustainably?
What is Leather?
Leather is defined by Merriam-Webster Dictionary as animal skin dressed for use. While this is leather at its most basic definition, it’s actually a bit more complicated than that. The COP27 Leather Manifesto defines leather as “a natural material, crafted from a raw material that arises as a waste from the production of the food that we all need.” This definition places sustainability at the forefront of leather production, which – if actually practiced – is supported by us here at Slow Fashion USA.
Many different animal skins are used to create leather. When it comes to making clothing, companies tend to prefer mature cattle skin. Woolbearing sheepskin is another popular choice, for its softer texture. Calfskin, goatskin, deerskin, and pigskin are also used, though typically for things like furniture or book bindings.
How Important is Leather?
Tanning has historically been described as “man’s first manufacturing process.” This is no exaggeration: according to Collective Fashion Justice, the oldest intact leather shoe is over 5,500 years old and made from cow skin. Since the Bronze Age, people all across the world have used it as armor, including ancient Rome, Greece, and China. It has also been a popular choice for sandals (particularly in ancient Greece and Egypt), and to carry water with. For example, ancient Indians carried water in leather items called “mashaks.” So, why has leather stood the test of time?
Well, its durability is one explanation. It is resistant to water damage, tearing and, in order to be classified as true leather, must also be naturally resistant to microbiological degradation. However, these qualities are only true of good quality leather, and are not usually true of leather clothing produced by fast fashion companies. In fact, most “leather” produced by such companies is plastic-based, made from fossil fuels. Some may prefer plastic-leather (or, as it’s referred to nowadays, “pleather”) to animal-based leather, to avoid the murder of innocent animals. On the other hand, fossil fuels are a nonrenewable energy source that deplete the Earth’s resources. It’s a difficult moral dilemma that consumers are forced to grapple with, and there is no right answer. Even if you prefer more natural animal leather, it may not be all it’s cracked up to be: most leather nowadays is treated with harsh chemicals and coated in plastic.
Leather and People
Natural leather may be few and far between, but it holds great significance for a subsection of the LGBT+ community, along with the biker, goth, and punk subcultures. Within the gay leather community, people pass down their leather clothing items as a rite of passage. Because of leather’s naturally absorptive state, it’s considered to hold the essence of the person who wore it before you, having absorbed their scent, sweat, etc. And, since it’s durable, it can last a long time, being treated and honored as a physical embodiment of the owner, even after death.
Clearly, leather is, and will most likely remain, a staple of one’s wardrobe. From that first pair of shoes 5,500 years ago, to the iconic and evergreen leather jacket, leather is a fixture of fashion history. However, the mass production of leather exploits human workers and animals alike. If we are to make ethically-sound fashion choices, we need to know where our clothing comes from.
Follow @slowfashion.usa on Instagram to find out how you can get involved. Stay tuned to our April #KnowYourLeather campaign for more info!
Written by Sara Traynor
Sara uses she/her pronouns. Fashion and writing are her two favorite modes of creative expression, and she loves to combine them in SFUSA. In her free time, she does crossword puzzles, reads, and watches SpongeBob.